Half way through my second afternoon, I had had enough- enough to return home with my head and heart happily filled. Strolling the pristine beach of Magaruque Island off southern Mozambique, I thanked my lucky stars and lovely Susana Vidal, GM of Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel, who had arranged our Sailaway Dhow Safaris trip-worth every cent.

The Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel in Vilanculos has truly panoramic vistas from its breezy bluff overlooking the wide, flat bay toward several islands within the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park – Magaruque, Benguerra and Bazaruto.

The view welcomes you as you step through the open plan reception, bar and restaurant and is enjoyed from anywhere on the terrace, lawn, or the infinity pool and its bar. Down steps is the accommodation in four buildings on the slope, each with two sea-view bedrooms on the uppelevel and one ginormous, luxurious beach suite below.

I had me one of those, with private plunge pool, a short path and a door to the beach, and beautifully appointed and equipped for self-catering, although the closest I got to that was plunger coffee in the mornings. A shame almost, what with a built in braai complete with extractor chimney and plenty other mod cons.

Time spent indoors was minimal in any case, since BahiaMar is the perfect destination from which to explore- on board the luxury launch Mayara if you can afford it. Activities include fishing; kite-surfing; stand up paddling; horse riding; diving and snorkelling, which takes me back to Magaruque (visit off-peak to enjoy kilometres of island to yourself).

Booties on, we crossed to the ocean side of our little inlet, plopped into the warm water with goggles on and immediately the current took us. No fins needed unless you want to swim against it, exploring the rock wall which drops some five metres. Loads of nutrients ‘cos of the spring tides, tons of fish- I have never been in such a traffic jam of colours.

We found eddies close to the rocks and bobbed along until, in a calm spot, we were joined by the dhow. While Alfredo Baoane and skipper Manuel Camba cooked over a fire on board, we clambered back over the rocks and swam to the beach. Companion Shelley sat in the shallows as teensy fish exfoliated her legs. I rescued a bag of crisps from crows, cormorants ignored all while diving for seagrass for their nests.

Manuel soon trudged from the dhow with our delicious (mostly seafood of course) lunch .Then it was snooze, swim, meander, back on the dhow and around the sandbars and flamingos and into a drenching passing storm.

Faquir- one groovy guy

Back in Vilanculos the streets were awash, the greenery refreshed. “Faquir! Faquir!” squealed littl’uns, spying us with much-loved guide Faquir Nhamue, whose town tour was a treat and who arranged something a little different.

That cool evening, on a smoky fire in a small reed hut, Sarah Katerina put the finishing touches (crayfish) to Matapa- a fragrant mix of pound Cassava leaves, peanut powder, coconut milk, garlic and onions. Lovely. By the time we finished it seemed such a familiar taste and texture, one which lingered until the tuk-tuk dropped us at Bahia Mar, where I tucked into their Affogato Bebedo dessert. I’m sure the other desserts are lovely but I had this delicious combo of coffee, nightcap and dessert (rum, espresso, chocolate ice cream, cashews and bitter dark chocolate) three nights running.


Not to be outdone by the locals, chef Dalida Hugo wowed us the following evening with a seafood platter we couldn’t finish, but most apparently do. Broadly smiling, athletic Emília Massinguile also wowed me with her massage technique in an open sided treatment hut alongside the superbly equipped gym and wellness centre,  with its outdoor jacuzzi and Zen meditation space.

We didn’t meditate, but still left in a pretty Zen state. Marvellous.

Getting There

Airlink offers five flights per week to Vilanculos and daily flights from Vilanculos to Johannesburg.  Airlink, now connecting you to 37 destinations in nine African countries. Visit www.flyairlink.com for more. Spread your wings – fly Airlink.

An Island Affair- Seychelles